Materia Aromatica

The Lavender Library

Five species, ten oils. Lavender read by species, origin and method.

See the oils ↓

Lavender is commonly regarded as one oil sold in grades. The genus holds some forty species, and the oils traded under its name differ in kind. Linalyl acetate, camphor, 1,8-cineole and fenchone appear in such different proportions across the genus that a formula written for one lavender rarely transfers to another.

01 · The Genus

Two sections, one hybrid

Lavandula belongs to the Lamiaceae, the mint family, and is centred on the western Mediterranean. The species distilled for oil fall into two botanical sections. Section Lavandula holds true lavender and spike lavender, the two parents of lavandin. Section Stoechas holds the tufted lavenders, with coloured bracts crowning the flower head, among them Lavandula stoechas and Lavandula luisieri.

Chemistry follows the botany closely. The first section is built on linalool, with linalyl acetate high in true lavender and low in spike. The second section departs from that pattern altogether, and its oils are handled as separate materials.

Ester-led

True lavender

Lavandula angustifolia. Linalyl acetate and linalool lead; camphor and 1,8-cineole are minor.

Oxide and ketone

Spike lavender

Lavandula latifolia. Linalool, with 1,8-cineole and camphor in far higher proportion.

Hybrid

Lavandin

Lavandula × intermedia. Sterile, propagated by cuttings, its chemistry between the two parents.

Section Stoechas

Stoechas and Sevilla

Fenchone and camphor in one, necrodane esters in the other. Linalyl acetate leads neither.

Side by side

10 oils at a glance

Oil Botanical name Origin Cultivation Main constituents From Availability
Lavender Highland, Superior (Wild Organic) Lavandula angustifolia France Wild-crafted organic Linalyl acetate, Linalool, Ocimene, Terpinene-4-ol, Lavan... $23.80 In stock
Lavender, Spike (organic) Lavandula latifolia Spain Certified organic Linalool, 1,8-Cineol, Camphor $22.00 In stock
Lavandin Sweet Super (organic) Lavandula hybrida France Certified organic Linalool, Linalyl acetate, Camphor, 1,8-Cineol, Borneol, ... $12.00 In stock
Lavender, Kashmir Lavandula angustifolia India Conventional Linalyl acetate, Linalool, beta Caryophyllene, Lavandulyl... $28.00 In stock
Lavender, Maillette (organic) Lavandula angustifolia France Certified organic Linalyl acetate, Linalool, beta-Caryophyllene, 1,8-Cineol $19.00 In stock
Lavender, Sevilla (Organic) Lavandula luisieri Portugal Certified organic alpha-Luisieryl acetate, alpha-Luisierol, 1,8-Cineol, Lav... $20.00 In stock
Lavender, Highland (organic) Lavandula angustifolia France Certified organic Linalyl acetate, Linalool, Ocimene, Terpinene-4-ol, Lavan... $15.00 Sold out
Lavender Highland, Greece (organic) Lavandula angustifolia Greece Certified organic Linalyl acetate, Linalool, Terpinene-4-ol, cis- & trans b... $13.00 Sold out
Lavender, Absolute Lavandula angustifolia France Conventional Linalyl acetate, Linalool, Coumarine $21.00 Sold out
Lavender, Stoechas (organic) Lavandula stoechas Portugal Wild certified organic Fenchone, Camphor, 1,8-Cineol, Linalool $26.00 Sold out

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02 · The Range

Ten oils, five species

No. 1910 · FranceLavender, Highland (organic)Lavandula angustifolia · certified organicLinalyl acetate and linalool; lavandulol and lavandulyl acetate mark the true species. No. 1930 · FranceLavender Highland, Superior (Wild Organic)Lavandula angustifolia · wild-crafted organicWild, seed-grown stands. Ocimene and terpinen-4-ol over a soft ester core. No. 1901 · FranceLavender, Maillette (organic)Lavandula angustifolia · certified organicA single clone. Linalyl acetate and linalool, with beta-caryophyllene. No. 1907 · BulgariaLavender Highland, Bulgaria (organic)Lavandula angustifolia · certified organicHigh-grown. Ocimene gives a green top, beta-caryophyllene a woody base. No. 1915 · IndiaLavender, KashmirLavandula angustifolia · conventionalLinalyl acetate and linalool, beta-caryophyllene and a soft woody undertone. No. 1913 · FranceLavender, AbsoluteLavandula angustifolia · conventionalSolvent extracted. Coumarin in far greater proportion; hay and tobacco. No. 1895 · SpainLavender, Spike (organic)Lavandula latifolia · certified organicLinalool with high 1,8-cineole and camphor; sharp and penetrating. No. 1870 · FranceLavandin Sweet Super (organic)Lavandula × intermedia · certified organicLinalool and linalyl acetate, with camphor and cineole from the spike parent. No. 1920 · PortugalLavender, Stoechas (organic)Lavandula stoechas · wild certified organicFenchone and camphor. A ketonic oil. No. 1916 · PortugalLavender, Sevilla (Organic)Lavandula luisieri · certified organicAlpha-luisieryl acetate and alpha-luisierol, found in no other lavender.

03 · Side by Side

Three comparisons

Species first. Lavender, Highland (No. 1910), Lavender, Spike (No. 1895) and Lavandin Sweet Super (No. 1870) set on strips together show the two parents and their hybrid. The lavandin sits between them, with the floral linalool body of the one and a share of the camphor and cineole of the other.

Then population against clone. Lavender Highland, Superior (No. 1930) is distilled from wild stands grown from seed. Lavender, Maillette (No. 1901) comes from a single cultivar propagated vegetatively. The wild oil varies from plant to plant and from season to season; the clone is the steadier reference. Lavender Highland, Bulgaria (No. 1907) and Lavender, Kashmir (No. 1915) extend the question of origin beyond France.

Then method. Lavender, Absolute (No. 1913) beside any distilled angustifolia isolates what solvent extraction retains. Coumarin, present only in small amount in the distilled oils, becomes a defining part of the absolute. Lavender, Stoechas (No. 1920) and Lavender, Sevilla (No. 1916) close the set as the two members of section Stoechas, and neither reads as lavender in the angustifolia sense.

04 · In Practice

Format follows chemistry

The angustifolia oils are the general materials of the library: diffusion, massage blends, bath preparations and skincare formulation. In natural perfumery they work as middle notes and join citrus, wood and resin without dominating. The absolute is a perfumer's material first. Lavender and coumarin form the core of the fougère accord, and the absolute supplies both with good tenacity, in small proportion.

Spike and lavandin read brighter and sit higher in a composition. Both suit diffusion and massage blends where a fresh, camphoraceous lift is wanted, and pair readily with rosemary, pine and eucalyptus. Stoechas is a ketonic oil, used at conservative dilution and in blends for adults. Sevilla is chiefly of interest in natural perfumery and olfactory study, where its necrodane facet is unfamiliar enough to be learned on its own before it is blended.

Essential oils are for aromatic and topical use. Dilute before applying to skin. Keep out of reach of children.