Materia Aromatica

The Helichrysum Library

Four species, four countries. Immortelle from France to Madagascar.

See the oils ↓

Immortelle is a common name spread across a very large genus, and the label alone says little about the oil. Helichrysum italicum is the species most texts describe. The Malagasy and South African species sold under the same name carry different chemistry and do different work in a blend.

01 · The Genus

Daisy family, two chemistries

Helichrysum belongs to the daisy family, Asteraceae. The common names everlasting and immortelle refer to the papery flower heads, which hold their colour long after drying.

The species in this library fall into two groups. Mediterranean italicum is ester-led, marked by neryl acetate and the italidiones, diketones found in this species and rarely elsewhere. The Madagascan and South African species carry little of either. Gymnocephalum and bracteiferum are led by 1,8-cineole; splendidum by limonene and beta-pinene. Within italicum itself, origin and harvest shift the profile further.

The silver-grey foliage common to several species reflects their adaptation to dry, sunny, stony ground, and the flower heads are small, clustered and golden.

Mediterranean

Italicum

Neryl acetate, gamma-curcumene and the italidiones. Honeyed, herbaceous and warm.

Madagascar

Gymnocephalum and bracteiferum

Cineole-led. Closer to the camphoraceous leaf oils than to Mediterranean immortelle.

Southern Africa

Splendidum

Limonene and beta-pinene with a sesquiterpene fraction. Fresh, resinous, lightly spicy.

Side by side

6 oils at a glance

Oil Botanical name Origin Cultivation Main constituents From Availability
Helichrysum Italicum Essential Oil (Organic) Helichrysum italicum France Certified organic Neryl acetate, gamma-Curcumene, Italidione I+II+III, alph... $45.00 In stock
Helichrysum Italicum Essential Oil – Superior (Wild Organic) Helichrysum italicum France Wild-crafted organic Neryl acetate, gamma-Curcumene, Limonene, Italicene, Ital... $21.00 In stock
Helichrysum Italicum, Balkans / Immortella (Organic) Helichrysum italicum Bosnia-Herzegovina Certified organic alpha-Pinene, gamma-Curcumene, Neryl acetate, Italicene, ... $36.00 In stock
Helichrysum Bracteiferum (Immortella) Helichrysum bracteiferum Madagascar Wild 1,8-Cineol, beta-Pinene, alpha-Humulene, beta-Caryophyllene $18.75 In stock
Helichrysum Gymnocephalum / Immortella (wild) Helichrysum gymnocephalum Madagascar Wild 1,8-Cineol, Paracymene, alpha- & beta-Pinene, Terpinene-4-ol $22.50 In stock
Helichrysum Splendidum / Immortella (Wild) Helichrysum splendidum South Africa Wild Limonene, beta-Pinene, Cubebol, Bicyclogermacrene, delta-... $16.50 In stock

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02 · The Range

Six oils, four species, one water

No. 1590 · FranceHelichrysum Italicum Essential Oil (Organic)Helichrysum italicum · certified organicNeryl acetate leads, with gamma-curcumene and the italidiones. The species reference. No. 1597 · FranceHelichrysum Italicum Essential Oil – Superior (Wild Organic)Helichrysum italicum · wild-crafted organicNeryl acetate, gamma-curcumene, limonene and italicene, from wild stands. No. 1595 · Bosnia-HerzegovinaHelichrysum Italicum, Balkans / Immortella (Organic)Helichrysum italicum · certified organicAlpha-pinene and gamma-curcumene lead; neryl acetate recedes. The Balkan profile. No. 1591 · MadagascarHelichrysum Bracteiferum (Immortella)Helichrysum bracteiferum · wild1,8-cineole and beta-pinene, with humulene and caryophyllene. Woody and camphoraceous. No. 1593 · MadagascarHelichrysum Gymnocephalum / Immortella (wild)Helichrysum gymnocephalum · wild1,8-cineole with para-cymene, pinenes and terpinen-4-ol. Sharp and lifted. No. 1592 · South AfricaHelichrysum Splendidum / Immortella (Wild)Helichrysum splendidum · wildLimonene, beta-pinene, cubebol and bicyclogermacrene. Fresh and resinous. No. 5275 · FranceHelichrysum Water (Organic Hydrosol)Helichrysum italicum · wild-crafted organicThe water phase of italicum distillation. Herbal, dry and faintly honeyed.

03 · Side by Side

Origin, harvest, species

The two French italicum oils, No. 1590 and No. 1597, hold species and country constant. One comes from cultivated plants, the other from wild stands. Both are led by neryl acetate, so the differences between them are of ground and harvest rather than chemical type, and they show best on blotters followed over several hours.

The Balkan italicum, No. 1595, set beside No. 1597, shows origin at work within one species. Alpha-pinene and gamma-curcumene come forward and neryl acetate recedes. The opening is fresher and more resinous, the heart more curry-like.

Gymnocephalum or bracteiferum beside any italicum shows species at work. The cineole register of the Malagasy oils sits nearer to eucalyptus and ravintsara than to the Mediterranean plant. Splendidum stands between the groups, neither cineole-led nor ester-led. The hydrolate beside its oil shows which notes stay in the water: drier and more herbal, with the ester sweetness largely gone.

04 · In Practice

Low concentration, long reach

The italicum oils are middle notes, the wild-crafted oil reaching towards the base. Their honeyed, hay-like character carries at low concentration, and the flowering tops give little oil, so they are used sparingly in facial oils, skincare formulation and natural perfumery. Rose, lavender, clary sage, cistus, frankincense and sandalwood are their natural company.

The Madagascan species belong with the camphoraceous oils in diffusion and massage blends, alongside ravintsara, eucalyptus, rosemary and cypress. Splendidum suits massage blends and perfumery where a fresher, woodier immortelle note is wanted.

The hydrolate serves facial mists, toners and the water phase of creams and lotions. It is kept cool and used within a year of opening.

Italicum is costly, so comparative work across the library is done on blotters from a single drop of each oil, read alongside the hydrolate.

Essential oils are for aromatic and topical use. Dilute before applying to skin. Keep out of reach of children.